The Deluxe Telemaster 40 kit is a quantum leap forward in kit design featuring full laser cut parts. Even the hinge slots are laser cut! Unlike the older kits, the Deluxe Telemaster 40 kit parts are designed to interlock in a way that makes it very easy to build a straight and true structure quickly. We were able to frame up the complete airframe in 22 hours and this was done using Titebond II aliphatic resin glue for most of the construction instead of instant cyanoacrylate glue!
The original Telemaster 40 kit had ailerons and offered flaps as an option. The Deluxe Telemaster 40 kit comes standard with ailerons, flaps, and a four-servo wing so each surface can be independently controlled. A basic 6-channel radio system can be used by coupling the two aileron servos with a Y-harness and the two flap servos with a Y-harness. For those with a more advanced radio system offering computerized mixing capability, the Deluxe Telemaster 40 can become a test bed for all sorts of wing control mixing.
This is of particular value in an airplane used for aero towing sailplanes. We were very pleased to discover that this new Deluxe Telemaster 40 kit is manufactured here in the U.
We also have long been fans of the great DuBro products that are manufactured here in the U. In our experience, a 4-stroke glow engine is better than a 2-stroke engine for aero towing because of its low end torque. Electric motors have even better low end torque. As a rule of thumb, a tow plane typically needs a power system that is about half again larger than what would be used for a sport plane application.
This also gives cooling airflow straight through the controller and provides a nice area that protects the ESC. Our initial motor run was made with a 6-cell 5,mAh 20c LiPo pack and produced watts of power at 34 amps. We attached our fish scale and measured 8lbs. With this kind of power, we added plate washers to the left side of the motor mount to create right thrust. With a larger motor and with the extra drag of a sailplane on tow, the right thrust helps to keep the tow plane from yawing to the left and makes for better and straighter tows and less need to hold right rudder.
These are already cut and only fit in one direction. Watch for the flap hinge slots when gluing on these leading edge parts if your using white glue keep it out of those slots they are a slight step on the bottom it could make installing the hinges difficult later. With a razor plane the tops of the aileron and flaps are shaved down to match the ribs to prepair for the top sheets.
Now they are pined down and the top sheets are glued in place. I marked them as right and left parts for now. This is the hinge-slot cutting tool they provided and just a few passes with a new blade has them ready to accept those. One slot is ailerons and the other is flaps. Just use this on the wing only since the control surfaces already have those slots cut.
With the hinge lines being different so are the trim requirements on the flap and ailerons. On the right is the flap its just a chamfer on the bottom sheet and the aileron is beveled on top and bottom meeting on the hinge line. I have installed the hinges for this next step as the flap drops it exposes the hinge a little but these will get glued later on.
After shaping the tip the parts can be removed and final sanded getting them ready to cover. Just fine sand paper or grit on these a little at a time. This is the base plate for one of the stabilizers with a plate that the servo cover attaches to. It also gets the 4 40 blind nuts installed at this time. Here the bottom main spar leading and trailing edge parts. Once they are pinned down the ribs can be located. With all the ribs in place the shear webs and top main spar can be located and glued.
Then it can be removed from the board sand the ends and install the tips same procedure as the wing. Here the elevators are built up over the bottom sheeting and the joiner is installed along with the ribs. With the razor plane and sanding bar the top leading and trailing edges are trimmed down to the height of the ribs. Making some side walls is the fuselage beginning with inboard and outboard sides. The one with the extra slots goes inboard the upper and lower halves get edge glued together first.
Making up a left and right side mirror opposites before gluing them together the sides are cross grain to add strength and warp resistance these were cured under heavy books. The aft section was attached to the forward parts once they were dry. That center piece was cut to fit everything else so far was pre cut and a perfect fit.
This is the third bulkhead it is attached freestanding so the square was used again while the glue cured on the same side. After a trial fit and some glue applied the other side was stacked on the frames and weight was used to hold it down tight while the glue cured. After building up the gear base plate, latch and cargo opening these parts are glued onto the bottom.
In the rear these lateral braces were tacked in place using a pin through the center holding them down across all 3 glue points then f4 thru f7 are located to ensure the tips have clearances before gluing.
The right side used the drawing with the other side being mirror opposite. There are blind nuts that go inside the wing root with them being longer than the disc I used a scrap of balsa to hammer them down instead if trying to draw them thru with the bolts, then they pushed into the soft balsa inside the fuse with glue on the disc and a spring clamp held each one in place while the glue cured before putting the next one on.
Here the main spar is fitted into the slot to hold the three sticks in there slots while that glue sets up removing the spar before it is cured in place and cleaning off any squeezed out glue.
With the rear of the fuselage taking final shape the stab plate is glued on and the tail wheel brace under that then each former ahead of that can be glued in place with little effort. Ten equal length sticks are glued onto this gap giving it more of a boxed in look and additional strength. Coming up is the motor mount and final assembly getting it ready to cover.
This is the top of the fuselage after adding the sheeting, windshield and test fitting the wing. Just a few more things to do now and it will be ready to cover.
It has a Deans connector and very short wires that just reach the firewall. Here is the finished motor mounted on the nose. Now is the last chance to smooth out the seams and gaps. Also building over wax paper leaves excess glue that will show through the covering. With light finger tip feel the areas to do additional sanding since the covering will only cover so much and what looks good enough may look worse once the covering is attached.
Peeling it back to fix something that can be found and fixed now. Laser-cutting looks great too. Wow, we certainly have come on a long way since those days. I imagine you have to be in your seventies to like this sort of thing. It would be like having a sixties haircut and being drafted. Who needs all that? People like all sorts of different things.
For me, your statements were offensive. You can keep your moulded sic gliders, jets and helicopters. I build and fly for relaxation, not for exhilaration. Or you could ask why we like them. You might just learn something that way. In at 10mph wind they will hover in place.
The is a relaxing plane to just float around or do some towing work if you want. Mine are both electric. If you want to learn about flight, this is a great place to start. I love Telemasters! One of my favorite memories is a gentleman in our club making high approaches and slipping his Telemaster so gracefully it was as if the plane was suspended by string.
Quite a pilot; quite an airplane! I just finished building this model and now waiting for the snow to melt to fly it. I have installed an OS four stroke in this airplane instead of electric. I already have an electric Senior Telemaster. The new laser cut Senior Telemaster V2 was not a joy to build. Prepare the stabilizer plate SP.
Install four blind nuts into the holes provided. They should be installed from the top. Pin this part in place over the plans. Place the pins through the blind nuts to keep them out of the way.
Taper the ends to butt fit to the stabilizer tips SWT. When your satisfied with the fit of this bevel, glue the top spar into position. Page 15 c 13 Install and glue the trailing edge STE. The center notch will determine position. Sand all surfaces as required in preparation for covering. Page 16 Sand the rudder assembly flat and then c 22 round off the trailing edge. Extend the hinge slots into R1 and slightly bevel both sides of the assembly to allow for move- ment when installed. This concludes the rudder assembly Vertical Fin assembly Laminate the two V1 using the register pins.
Page 18 c 15 Use the register pins to position the top sheeting and glue it into position. Use tape or weights to hold it in position until the adhesive has set. Use finesse not force, when everything is lined correctly they will fall in place. Apply glue to the top of the sheer webs from W12 to the root and to each rib in the flange notch at the top of each rib.
Place SPF-T onto the wing and use a straight edge to weigh it down until it cures. Page 22 c 22 Use slow CA, apply a liberal bead to the top of the spar flange the full length in- cluding the tip section of the sheer webs. We will glue it to the ribs and the leading edge from the bottom later. Install LES-T and hold in place with a straight edge until cured.
Page 23 Install and glue two wing sheeting gus- c 32 sets WGS. These will support the wing tip sheeting and should be glued in flush with the bot- tom of W Before installing the top sheet, the lead- ing and trailing edges as well as FLHPB must be sanded to contour with the flap ribs.
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